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Determine the Height of the Stove pipes
Take a measurement from the ceiling to the floor.
Now subtract the total height of the stove (measured from the bottom of the stove to the top of the flue collar) from the ceiling height. Don't forget to subtract any hearth or hearth pad that the stove will sit on.
You also need to subtract the distance that the ceiling support box will extend down into the home. The support box must extend a minimum of 2" below the ceiling to meet clearances.
You only need to be close with your measurements here, not exact. Our black stove pipes cannot be cut to size so you will need one of our telescoping lengths to complete your installation. This gives you lots of "play" in your measurement.
Height of the Class A Pipes
That is :
Distance from the attic floor to the roof
+
Height on the roof
Calculate the required height on the roof
The termination of a chimney above a roof must comply with NFPA 211 and/or CAN/CSA-A405. These codes require the chimney to terminate at least 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof, and 2 feet higher than any part of any building within 10 feet. A UL- or ULC-listed chimney cap must be installed.
What is the 3-2-10 Rule for Chimney Height?
If your chimney is too short, it won't draft properly. Smoke may enter your living space instead of venting outside. But if the chimney is too tall, the flue gases can cool excessively, reducing draft and potentially creating backdraft.
To avoid these problems, use the 3-2-10 rule:
This ensures a safe and effective draft, even with sloped or pitched roofs.
How to Calculate the Correct Chimney Height
Knowing your roof pitch helps determine how high the chimney must extend. Roof pitch is the vertical rise per 12 inches of horizontal run. For example, a 7/12 pitch means the roof rises 7 inches for every 12 inches of run.
Step-by-Step Calculation:
Measure Roof Pitch: Identify the pitch (e.g., 7/12).
Measure Horizontal Distance from Ridge: Use the actual distance or 10 feet (whichever applies).
Calculate Height: Multiply pitch rise by horizontal distance, then add 24 inches.
Example 1: Chimney More Than 10 Feet from Ridge
Pitch: 7/12
Distance: 10 feet
Height: 7 x 10 = 70 inches
Final chimney height = 70 + 24 = 94 inches above roof
Example 2: Chimney 4 Feet from Ridge
Distance: 4 feet
Height: 7 x 4 = 28 inches
Final chimney height = 28 + 24 = 52 inches above roof
Why Proper Clearance Matters
The 3-2-10 rule isn’t just about smoke control. It helps prevent fire risks by keeping hot embers away from the roof and ensures compliance with building codes. Always double-check your local building codes before installation, and consult a professional if in doubt.
The type of flashing depends on the pitch of the roof.
For more information see our Blog
Measure from the highest support point—normally the top wall bracket or roof flashing—to the top of the chimney.
If the unsupported length would exceed 10 feet, contact us before ordering. This wizard does not calculate such installations.
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Our wood stove pipe kits through the roof are complete chimney systems built on UL 103 HT listed Class A chimney pipe, with the stove pipe and adapter that connect them inside the room, for a full vertical run inside the house, not just a small set of roof pass-through parts.
If you are comparing layouts or sizes, check our wood stove pipe kits to find the setup that best fits your stove and home.
Looking for another kit through the house?
Kit for Multi-Story House Kit through Attic
A through the roof wood stove pipe kit works best when the diameter, height, and layout are matched to your stove from the start.
Therefore, the right size depends on your stove collar and the manufacturer’s venting requirements, not personal preference. When the chimney diameter matches your appliance, the system is more likely to keep a steady draft and perform as intended.
MANUAL INSTALLATION GUIDE
A through-the-roof chimney system follows a straightforward vertical path from the stove to the roof exit. Here’s an overview of how the system is structured and where the transition to class A insulated chimney pipe takes place:
1. The black stove pipe starts in the room and connects your stove to the support box.
2. At the ceiling level, the system transitions to class A insulated chimney pipe.
3. The insulated chimney then continues safely through the roof using the correct flashing and support components.
The flashing itself is chosen by the pitch of your roof, not by the pipe. Our guide on how the roof flashing and storm collar work shows how to measure that and what each part at the penetration does.
4. The chimney must finish at the proper height above the roof for safe draft and code compliance.
For step-by-step guidance, check our wood stove chimney pipe installation resources.
1. Confirm your setup type, making sure your installation is truly a cathedral-ceiling or no-attic setup, since this directly affects the components required.
Wondering what a new chimney installation involves? The full guide sets out every step and part.
2. Do not confuse a black stove pipe with a class A chimney pipe. A stove pipe stays inside the room, while the insulated chimney system begins where the pipe passes through the ceiling.
3. Verify your measurements, checking the stove collar size, total chimney height, roof pitch, and the amount of chimney needed above the roofline before ordering.
4. Review roof flashing requirements, because using the wrong flashing for your roof pitch can lead to fit and weather-sealing issues.
Any part of the chimney system that passes through a ceiling or roof must use a class A insulated chimney pipe, not a regular stove pipe.
In most through-the-roof installations, keep at least 2 inches of clearance between the chimney pipe and combustibles to protect the surrounding structure.
Our through-the-roof kits use UL103HT insulated chimney systems from the point where the vent leaves the room. UL103HT is the U.S. safety standard for high-temperature chimney systems used with wood stoves, meaning the pipe has been tested for the demanding heat levels produced during wood-burning operation.
This insulated design:
A metal roof changes one thing about the install: the sealing. The pipe itself does not change. From the ceiling up you still need UL 103 HT-listed Class A insulated chimney pipe, because that is the only pipe rated to pass through a combustible roof structure. What a standing-seam or corrugated steel panel demands is a flashing that matches the panel profile and the pitch, plus a watertight collar, so you never get a leak at the one spot water loves to find.
Metal roofs come in a range of pitches and the flashing has to match the angle so it sits flat and sheds water. We stock three pitch bands: a flat roof flashing for low and flat roofs, starting at $240 in 6 inch diameter, a 1/12 to 6/12 pitch flashing for standard roofs, and a 7/12 to 12/12 pitch flashing for steep roofs. The wizard above picks the right one once you tell it your pitch.
On a ribbed or standing-seam panel, set the flashing base over the penetration, bed it in a high-temperature roofing sealant along the uphill and side edges, and fasten with gasketed screws. Leave the downhill edge to lap over the panel so water runs off the roof rather than under it.
Above the flashing cone, a storm collar clamps around the pipe and is sealed with a bead of high-temperature silicone. This is the part that stops rain tracking down the outside of the pipe and into the flashing. It is a small component that does a big job, and it is included in the matched kit so you are not left improvising on the roof.
Not sure which flashing your roof needs? Call our US team on 888-834-0880, or use our free flue-design service and we will spec the exact kit for your pitch and ceiling height.
If your stove is going into a masonry chimney that is already standing, this is not the kit you need. An existing masonry flue takes a stainless steel liner instead, sized to the stove.
You will find those on our stainless steel chimney liner kits page. A wood stove chimney kit through the roof is a different job: it builds a completely new insulated chimney from the stove up through the roof, for a house with no chimney where the stove is going, or with one in the wrong place for it.
Have the existing flue looked at before you order either one. Its condition, its shape and the narrowest point in it decide whether a liner will pass and which diameter fits, and that is a reading of your own chimney rather than something a kit page can settle for you.
If the stove is not going at the masonry chimney at all, the through the roof chimney kit is your route, and the builder above configures it for your ceiling and your roof.
No. Build the whole chimney from one matched system, from the stove to the cap. Every wood stove chimney kit on this page is supplied that way.
It matters because the clearance each part holds, the way its joints lock and how often the run has to be supported all come from that system's own listing and from the installation instructions supplied with it. Put a length from a second system into the same run and no single set of instructions covers it, so nothing tells you what the finished chimney is rated for.
It also matters for your cover. Our Limited Lifetime Warranty replaces defective components at 100% of the original purchase price for the first 15 years; after that, replacements are at 50% of the original price, for as long as the original owner owns the system. Its conditions include installing the system in accordance with the instructions supplied with it, whether you install it yourself or hire a contractor. The warranty page sets out the rest, and what the warranty does not cover.
If you are adding to a chimney that is already up, work out which system is up there first, because the new length has to come from the same one.
It depends on how much chimney your route needs, and every part is priced on its own.
Class A insulated chimney sections on our Class A chimney pipe range run from $73 for a 6 inch diameter section, 6 inches long, to $277 for an 8 inch diameter section, 48 inches long, at October 2026 prices. Your stove collar decides between the 6 and 8 inch diameters.
A complete run through the roof takes more than the insulated sections, and our wood stove pipe kits through the roof bring these parts together with them:
The kit builder above shows the price of your exact configuration once you have set the diameter, the ceiling height and the roof pitch. For how a kit you fit yourself compares with paying for a professional installation, our chimney installation cost guide sets the two side by side.
No. A single-wall stove pipe should not pass directly through the roof or ceiling.
The correct setup is to use the black stove pipe only inside the room, then transition to UL103HT class A insulated chimney pipe at the support box before the system passes through the ceiling and roof.
In other words, a wood stove pipe through the roof starts as an interior stove pipe at the appliance, then continues as an insulated chimney pipe through the structure and above the roofline.
Our wood stove pipe kits through the roof include the main parts needed to create a complete vertical chimney route from the stove to the roof exit, not just a few roof-penetration components.
Our setup includes:
- A chimney cap with spark screen; - A roof flashing with storm collar; - A ceiling or roof support box; - A stove pipe adapter to class A pipe; - A class A insulated chimney pipe; - An adapter from stove to stovepipe; - A black single-wall stove pipe used in the room.
The exact combination can vary depending on your stove size, ceiling height, and roof layout, but the structure of the system stays the same.
The logic is simple: 1. The black stove pipe connects the stove inside the room. 2. Then, the system transitions to UL103HT insulated chimney pipe where it passes through the ceiling and roof. 3. The support box carries the transition, the flashing and storm collar help weather-seal the roof penetration. 4. The chimney cap finishes the system safely above the roofline.
In many homes, venting through the roof is the better option when the layout allows it. A straight vertical run usually:
- Creates stronger draft - Helps smoke and flue gases move upward more efficiently - Often gives you a simpler chimney path overall
Through-the-roof installations also tend to have fewer turns, which can support steadier airflow and make the system easier to clean over time.
That said, through-the-wall venting can still be the right choice in some situations, especially when an indoor vertical route is not practical or the stove is close to an exterior wall.
The best option depends on your: - Room layout - Ceiling structure - Available chimney path.
For cathedral ceilings, open rooms, and installations with no attic above the stove, a through-the-roof chimney kit is often the better fit. If your layout is better suited to an exterior exit, you can check our wood stove pipe kits through the wall.
The right through-the-roof chimney kit depends on three main things:
- Stove collar size - Total chimney height - Roof conditions
1. Start with the stove outlet. The chimney diameter should match it, because using the wrong size can affect draft and overall performance.
2. Then measure the full vertical run, from the stove location to the roof exit, not just the visible section in the room.
Ceiling height, roof thickness, and the amount of chimney needed above the roof all affect the final setup.
3. Roof pitch matters too. The flashing must match the roof slope so the chimney can pass through the roof with the correct fit and weather seal.
Use the 3-2-10 rule as the standard guide.
That means the chimney should extend at least 3 feet above the point where it passes through the roof and at least 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet.
Our goal is to provide a complete, matched kit for this installation path, while the exact components depend on size, ceiling height, and roof setup.
Rather than piecing together separate parts, you get a matched chimney system designed to work together from the room connection to the roof exit.
Still, you should confirm measurements and configuration details before ordering so the system matches your stove and structure.
Yes. Like any wood stove chimney system, a through-the-roof kit should be checked and cleaned regularly for safe operation.
Over time, soot and creosote can build up, especially during heavy heating-season use.
Regular inspection and cleaning: - Help maintain proper draft - Reduce fire risk - Support long-term system performance
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