Many wood-burning stoves come with the choice of attaching the flue pipe to either a top or rear flue exit. All things being equal, it’s best for a flue pipe to go up in a straight line in order to achieve the best draw and most efficient burn from your woodburner. This is the set-up we will use here.

For the adaptor you have the following options:

- Single to twin wall adapter

To be pushed into the stove opening; sits inside the spigot of your stove and then connect to other twin wall flue pipe above.

- Single to twin wall adapter with a masking Flat masking shroud 500mm

Our flat masking shroud is designed to hide the adapter which is inserted into the spigot of your stove / appliance, where there is a step up in diameter. It is 500mm in length.

- Single to twin wall adapter - conical (for a better look)
This insulated twin wall conical adapter is used to connect the stove to the twin wall flue system; you can insert it into the stove's spigot being sure to cut the adapter down making it flush.With its tapered design it is more aesthetically pleasing than the standard adapter.

- Standard length (500 or 1000mm) with build-in adapter (for clean look) 
A straight length with a built in adapter, designed to sit on top of the stove to give a clean look.

- Adjustable stove connector length (for clean look and easy maintenance)
A 500mm straight length with a built in adapter, designed to sit on top of the stove to give a clean look.

The adjustable stove connector length allows you to remove the stove for maintenance without the need to take down the whole system. 

 For a full explanation see "complete information" below

You can chose one of the following options:

Firestop plates
The passage through the floor can be done with 2 ventilated firestop
plates and one clamp (is one "firestop set")

Masking plate
This element makes for a more aesthetic finish of the ceiling entry.
It is placed under the firestop plates.

Ventilated firestop plate
A ventilated firestop plate can be used underneath the ceiling when the flue
enters into the loft.For aestetic reasons you may want to add a masking plate.

Introduce an offset in your flue (see picture)

Determine how many mm the flue should move sidewards.
To create the offset we can work with elbows of 15°, 30° or 45°. A lower angle is better for the draw.

Wall brackets

Both elbows need to supported by a wall bracket. These brackets can be a roof support and/or a floor support.

Attention: You need to check if the required offset comes with an upward length that fits under your roof. If it does not; you need to find a solution, most likely go for a smaller offset...

We need to calculate how many straight elements we need going upwards; knowing that we already added some length to the flue through the adapter and the offset.

Step 1 : calculate how high the flue should be on the roof

To determine the required height on the roof (G)  see " Complete information" below.

Step 2: Calculate the total height of the flue (stove to cowl)

Total height of the flue  = B+C+D+E+F+G.   (In case of a 1 storey house; D, E and/or F can be 0)

Check: The total height from stove to end cap should be at least 3.5 meter (building regulation recommends 4.5 meter).

You do not need to have the exact height, somewhat higher is also okay.

Step 3: Determine how much length is in your shopping cart already

In your cart is already:

- length from a starter length or adjustable connector  (if you did chose one)  - Question 2

- length from the offset - Question 4

Step 4: Calculate the length that has to come from the straight pipes

Total height of the flue - what is in your cart allready.

Note: a bit higher is okay, but do not take a lower height.

What kind of material material is covering the roof:

- Metal roof, non tiles roofs:   we recommend an EPDM flashing 

- Flatter tiles and slates:         we advice a Aluminium - rubber flashing

- Normal house tiles:              use a Lead based flashing - Determine the pitch of the roof (0° being a flat roof, 60° a sharp roof)

Automatically we ad a roof support and -when required- a storm collar.

A finishing plate can be used to cover the opening between the flue and the ceiling under the roof. 

There are 3 type of rain caps to choose from:

Rain cap
Will keep vertical falliung rain out of the flue. In case of side winds, rain will enter the flue. In case of a flue outsie this is not a problem, as it can float out through the soot collector.

Rain cap with mesh
The mesh will keep birds from building a nest in your flue.

Weathering cap
Keeps rain out of the flue. Also blocks downwinds from entering your flue. Downwinds come from higher objects in the vicinity (up to 10mtr), and they will blow the smoke back into your house.

You need to support the flue over the roof if the free end becomes too long and requires additional support. We recommend to use a guy bracket and the telescopic support if the free end is more than 1,5m.

Every connection above the last support except for regular narrow locking band should be additionally secured with a wide locking band.